15 Students from the School of Fashion at Academy of Art University debut their thesis collections at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week. Since 2005, the School of Fashion has premiered the collections of Students and recent graduates during New York Fashion Week.
“This group of designers focused on transformation,” said Simon Ungless, Executive Director of the School of Fashion. “They used fabric manipulation and printing techniques to change the inherent qualities of textiles to create new textures and surface qualities. There is a focus back to the body and wearability in silhouette, which the designers have utilized advanced tailoring techniques to achieve.”
For the fall 2015 season, 15 designers presented 10 collections, four of which are collaborations between Fashion Design and Textile Design students. In total, eight womenswear, one mixed menswear and womenswear, and one menswear collection presented.
Emmanuelle Ciara Jones and Ghazaleh Khalifeh
For this collection Emmanuelle Ciara Jones was inspired by hip-hop street culture and music. Ghazaleh Khalifeh played off Jones’ inspiration of African textiles and voodoo, complementing silhouettes with textiles that incorporate elements of the culture, spirit and graffiti of New York’s Lower East Side in the early 1980s. All fabrics are 100% natural fibers.
Christian Willman Fall 2015 collection is inspired by the work of Northern Irish installation artist Matt Calderwood, whose sculptures challenge the physical potential of materials, explore structural power, and portray the use of friction and gravity to achieve equilibrium. Playing off these themes, Willman’s collection is both structured and minimalistic, and is executed in wool, eco-wool and cotton.
Xiaowei Liu and Stella Xingyu Hu
Xiaowei Liu collection is a mixture of menswear and womenswear looks which center on the basic silhouette of a bomber jacket. The collection is comprised entirely of indigo fabrics custom dyed by Liu, who was inspired by the Japanese indigo patchwork technique of boro. Stella Xingyu Hu collaborated with Liu on the menswear portion. Hu designed knitted garments inspired by a Rubik’s cube-corner-like design details, faux leather tape and a rainbow palette are evocative of the famous three-dimensional puzzle.
Han Tang and Tam Nguyen
This Fall 2015 collection is made of wool and silk. Inspired by Italian photographer Yvonne De Rosa and her series of dark photographs, Han Tang focuses on smooth lines and strong, elegant silhouettes for the shoulders and sleeves of her designs. Collaboration with textile designer Tam Nguyen who’s inspired by the decaying and chipping surfaces of abandoned houses. Her designs capture the texture of peeling and naturally weathered exteriors.
Erin A.F. Milosevich
Milosevich’s Fall 2015 collection centers on movement and restraint, which is portrayed through the juxtaposition of flowing fabric with constructed silhouettes. To further exaggerate volume and movement, each look includes a handmade crinoline.
Paulina Susana Romero Valdez
For her collection, “It’s Only Heritage,” Valdez draws inspiration from her Mexican roots as well as her fascination with baroque art and culture. The collection is executed in Baroque-style wool brocade, wool tweed, silk, cotton, hand-dyed leather, and is accented with vibrant, traditional Mexican embroidery.
Kevin C. Smith and Andrea Nyberg
Kevin C. Smith created menswear designs based around the ideas of light and volume. His inspiration comes from Christo’s Running Fence, a 24.5-mile-long installation art piece made by Christo and Jeanne-Claude in 1976, as well as from vintage light bulbs and candle smoke. The clothes are layered pieces comprised of sheer, flowing overcoats. Andrea Nyberg was inspired by non-material substances in nature, such as; smoke, condensation and dew mixed with layers of transparent stripes. She uses shades of blue wool suiting to create the more structured striped patterns, paired with grey and tonal blue organic prints for shirtings. Each silhouette includes many pieces offering playful but subtle print mixing. The looks are highlighted with atmospheric smoke printed raincoats enshrouding the men in form and function.
French philosopher Michel Foucault’s use of panopticon prison architecture to illustrate power and social order is credited as the inspiration behind Kayaoglu’s fall 2015 collection. Kayaoglu was drawn to images that showcased rusted metal inside the prison, which led him to develop a technique of dyeing fabric with rusted metal.
Farnaz Golnam drew inspiration from nature and incorporated three-dimensional details from flowers into the garments. The collection has a sculptural quality, which is enhanced by voluminous panels and seam detailing. The collection is executed in solid gray and black wool, and features needle-felting details that play with viewers’ perceptions of depth and dimension.
Xue Yang and Oom Terdpravat
Inspired by vintage Chinese fabric, Xue Yang’s collection focuses on a unique sleeve design. The cocoon shape of the garments represents restrictive practices, such as foot binding as practiced in prior centuries on Chinese women. Oom Terdpravat designed the textiles for their joint fall 2015 collection in a watercolor palette of deep purples, blues and greens. Her print inspiration derives from the floral, geometric embroidery of a Northwest Chinese hill tribe.
Backstage Beauty by David Dooley
Lera Tribel getting makeup done
Stunning capture of Dani Witt, Alena Podloznaya and Charlotte Lindvig
Beauty by Getty Images
A relaxed Kid Plotnikova gets her eye makeup done.
Zhao Qinghe gets a little makeup touchup
The very handsome Piero Mendez also gets light makeup done
Luca Stascheit all charmed while he gets his hair done
The makeup artist use some light make up to draw more attention to Matthijs Meel’s famous eyebrows
After the show by Joanna Barbayannis
Lovely capture of Piero Mendez, Lucas Cristino and Scarlet Peña Quezada